Maine in January

Yes, January is cold in Maine, but out here on my little island it’s a sparkling day with light glinting off the ocean like so many gems.  There’s much to do in Maine at this time of year, from skiing and skating to enjoying the fabulous restaurants. It’s easy to get here, too, by car or on the Downeaster train from Boston–a truly great way to travel–or by bus from Boston to Portland and then to points north.  With the crowds of tourists gone, it’s a wonderful time  to experience the state as the locals do. Those of us who live here year-round know that winter is one of our best-kept secrets.

There’s More to Maine than Lobster!

Most readers thinking of a Maine vacation are probably envisioning sparkling summer skies and lobster bakes, among other fair-weather activities. But Maine can be a great getaway in winter as well. Skiers will love the rural town of Rangeley and scenic Saddleback Mountain where there is excellent Alpine and cross-country skiing, as well as shopping in little stores filled with everything from books to items made by Native Americans. For the latter, don’t miss the charming Nowetah’s American Indian Museum and Store in nearby New Portland where you’ll find lovely handmade items and a knowledgeable shopkeeper and museum curator in Nowetah herself. It’s definitely worth the trip.

The Rangeley Lake Chamber of Commerce will be happy to help you plan a getaway to this area (www.rangeleymaine.com).

Or, you might visit the Sebago Lake region and ski at Shawnee Peak (shawneepeak.com),  a great family spot.

Or, if coastal Maine calls you even in winter, consider a drive through charming Damariscotta and a drive out to the Pemaquid Peninsula, starkly beautiful now in the winter light. Pemaquid Light is never more beautiful, in my opinion, than right now in the pale winter sunshine. There is ample parking on the lighthouse grounds and no parking fee in winter.  Back in Damariscotta you’ll find a variety of small shops and excellent restaurants open throughout the year. And yes, there is lobster!

Happy holidays to my readers as the season winds down and all the best for a peaceful and happy new year.

“The County”

Here in Maine, we know it simply as “The County.”  At about 6,453  square miles, Aroostook County is about the size of Connecticut and Rhode Island combined. This vast wilderness area is dotted with small towns and traversed by thousands of miles of waterways. It’s Maine at its most natural, and beautiful at any time of year.  Culturally, Aroostook County is an intriguing mix of descendants of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia families whose traditions often reflect their French heritage, descendents of early British settlers, and Americans who have come from elsewhere in the country, lured by the opportunities for a truly back-to-the-land lifestyle. The Acadian influence is very strong here and you’ll find lots of historical sites and monuments throughout the area.

A highlight for many travelers here is beautiful Mt. Katahdin. At 5,268 feet, it is Maine’s highest peak and marks the end of the Appalachian Trail.  Baxter State Park, a true wilderness park, surrounds the mountain. Be sure to visit Eagle Lake and continue on to Fort Kent where biathletes from the US and Canada train, and where the annual CAN-AM Crown Sled Dog Race  is held each winter, attracting mushers from Maine and Canada, some of whom will go on to race in the Iditarod. If you love winter,  Aroostook County will warm your heart. To find out what’s going on this winter, go to visitaroostook.com. You’ll find an entire chapter dedicated to “The County” in Backroads & Byways of New England: Drives, Day Trips & Weekend Excursions. 

 

Down East Maine

There’s still time before the snow flies to visit one of Maine’s most scenic areas, the lovely Schoodic Peninsula and the villages of Down East. To get there, begin by taking I-295 North from Portland to Brunswick, then travel Route 1 North to Ellsworth.

Lumber trucks rumbling by as you near Ellsworth are a reminder that Maine’s vast woods lie just to the north. Consider a stop at Helen’s for coffee and their famous pie before continuing on to Winter Harbor, one of the state’s most scenic spots. I love the Winter Harbor 5&10 where you can find all kinds of stuff you had no idea you needed. At this time of year the tourist crowds are gone and you can enjoy this pretty town just as the locals do.

From Winter Harbor, turn east on Route 186 and follow the signs to Acadia National Park.  That’s right — a small portion (about a 6-mile driving loop) of the park is here on the mainland. You may well have it all to yourself, so if it’s not too cold, it’s a great chance to get out and walk in the scenic woods.

While you’re in the area, also visit the pretty little towns of Prospect Harbor and Corea. Then leave the Schoodic Peninsula and head toward Machias, stopping first at Jonesport and Beals Island for a look at fishing villages that seem untouched by time. Then it’s on to Machias, site of the first naval engagement of the American Revolution. You’ll find lots of historic buildings in this area and lots of friendly people eager to tell you about their town. Keep in mind that many historic sites and restaurants keep seasonal hours from now through spring, so it’s always wise to call ahead. Bundle up and enjoy late autumn Down East!

Vermont Visits

This was not the best year for foliage viewing anywhere in New England because of the rainy and warm fall. Still, this period between the end of leaf-peeping and the first snowfalls can be a great time to visit anywhere in the 6-state area. For example,  the crowds are gone from Quechee Gorge in Vermont,  making it easier to explore this natural phenomenon known as Vermont’s Little Grand Canyon. You can stop at pull-offs along Route 4 for a quick look, but better still is the walk into the gorge from the Quechee Gorge Visitor Center along a forest trail lined with pines and hemlocks.  Quechee State Park encompasses the gorge. The water rushes clear and cold, birds chatter overhead, and all in all, this is a nice time to visit. (vtstateparks.com/htm/queechee.htm)

While you’re in the area, stop at the Vermont Institute of Natural Science Nature Center (VINS), home to eagles, hawks, and other raptors that have sustained injuries that make it impossible for them to return to the wild. (vinsweb.org)

Another must-stop is Woodstock with its picturesque village green–one national magazine has called Woodstock the prettiest small town in the country–and its all-around, all-American look. You’ll find the expected, such as farmers’ markets, and the surprising, such as five bells cast in the Paul Revere foundry–the most Paul Revere bells in any one location in the country.

For a great place to stay and/or dine in the area, check out the Woodstock Inn & Resort — lovely rooms, a cozy bar, and terrific food in the Red Rooster Dining Room. (woodstockinn.com) I also like the Easy Street Cafe and Restaurant in nearby Waitsfield for casual meals. (easystreetmarket.com) Nice people, too — when I inadvertently left my jacket behind, I called to see if they’d found it and they offered to mail it back. It reached home before I did.  Now that’s good service!

Next time I want to share the delights of Bennington and Brattleboro and then it’s on to the charms of Maine in late fall and winter.

Fall Adventures in NH

If antiques call your name, consider a drive along New Hampshire’s Antique Alley, beginning at the Lee Traffic Circle. Along this 22-mile stretch, you’ll find a great assortment of antiques (and yes, occasionally some junque) .  I especially like T. Berries Antiques and Primitives, Parker-French Antique Center, and Parker-French West Antique Center, all in Northwood, but be sure to check out the many other antiques shops along the route. The nearby Deerfield Fair takes place from Sept. 9-Oct. 2.  It’s a great family event, with something to appeal to all ages. Here’s a link for information: www.deerfieldfair.com  Also in the area is the University of New Hampshire at Durham. There’s also something going on at the campus most of the time and if you’re traveling with a potential college student,  fall is an excellent time to introduce him or her to the college scene. The gorgeous campus will encourage any high school junior or senior to hit the books, and Thompson Hall (locally known as T-Hall) in the middle of campus  is beloved by antiques enthusiasts and architecture buffs. www.unh.edu

Happy traveling. The leaves will soon be turning and New England will once again glow brightly.

 

Maine’s Wicked-Good Wine Trail

Fall is fabulous in Maine, and all the more so if you take time to explore the state’s exceptional wine trail. Vintners are doing amazing things not only with grapes but also with fruits like blueberries, cranberries, and elderberries. The results are both innovative and interesting. Many of the wineries are situated at family-owned farms where you can also enjoy visiting with the farm animals (a pig named Lettuce! Goats named Chardonnay, Riesling, and Pinot Noir!).  I had so much fun visiting wineries that stretch almost from one end of the state to the other that I wrote about them for Wine Enthusiast Magazine.  Here’s a link if you’d like to check it out.  http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/Web-2011/Maines-Wine-Trail/  At the end of the article you’ll find links suggesting  places to stay and a trolley that will take you to some of the midcoast wineries. Enjoy this unusual experience, perfect for a fall getaway!

More New Hampshire Adventures

This is a great time of year to travel through Northern New England, so why not plan a drive along the Kancamagus Highway in New Hampshire. A National Forest Scenic Byway, “the Kanc,” as it’s popularly known, has it all — lovely scenery, great swimming holes, forests, and waterfalls–and winds through the heart of the White Mountain National Forest.  It’s a great trip that you can do in as little as an hour is your time is limited, but why not plan a leisurely journey  to enjoy the scenery and the wildlife, and stop for a swim or to eat lunch beside a gurgling stream. Amenities are very limited, so plan accordingly and be sure that sunscreen and insect repellant are readily available.

While you’re in New Hampshire, you might like to look for finds at Antique Alley near the Lee traffic circle, about 45 minutes from Manchester. You’ll find all kinds of large and small antiques in the shops at Antiques Alley–  at large and small prices to fit any budget. It’s always fun to see what you can find in a dusty corner.

For more information about these and other trips in New Hampshire and elsewhere in New England, I hope you’ll check out my new book, Backroads & Byways of New England: Drives, Day Trips & Weekend Excursions. There’s a link to Amazon on my website, or order from your favorite bookstore (and please consider supporting your local independent bookstore). Signed copies are available from me by email.

Wherever you travel in New England this summer, have a wonderful time. Thanks for stopping by, and feel free to post a note and tell me about your own favorite trip in New England or elsewhere.

Linekin Bay Resort

Here’s another great spot for a family vacation in Maine : Linekin Bay Resort in Boothbay Harbor. I’ve just returned from a couple of days there, and if you like to sail, or want to learn to sail, or even if you just like to relax and watch the sailboats  in the distance, this is the place to be.  There are plenty of other activities for the whole family, from Ping-Pong and tennis to swimming in the warm saltwater pool if you’d like to avoid the chilly bay water. All meals are included, making this a very family-friendly option. I met several families who return year after year and one lovely 95-year-old woman who has come back every year since 1946. Now that’s an endorsement! Check them out at LinekinBayResort.com.  Moorings are available, so you can even arrive by boat for the ultimate Maine experience!

More Terrific New England Destinations

In days gone by,  many New England families made a  trek along the Mohawk Trail at least once.  Today the Trail has a nostalgic ’40s and ’50s feel to it, but it’s still fun.  Small restaurants and little shops, including some owned by Native Americans, still line the trail and make for interesting stops.  Don’t miss “Hail to the Sunrise,” a 900-lb. bronze casting of a Native American that honors the tribes whose members were the first to use the Mohawk Trail. Nearby Historic Deerfield is a must for history buffs with its 18th- and 19th-century homes and a tavern, most still on their original sites.

Why not continue up to New Hampshire and visit its magnificent lakes, including famous Squam Lake in Holderness, setting for the film On Golden Pond.  Check out  Lake Winnipesaukee, too, the sixth-largest naturally formed lake in the country. Its name means “Smile of the Great Spirit” and the lake is known by anglers around the world for its terrific bass fishing. With state parks and plenty of swimming holes, you’ll find plenty to do on a hot summer day.